With the NYFW Men SS17 shows ending today, it’s time to fetch the magnify to get a close look. With London, JW Anderson had the fashion crowd captivated with his collection inspired by the fairytale Le Petit Prince. Next up was Milan, with an eclectic mix of mega prints at Gucci and Raf Simons expression of 90’s eroticism inspired by photographer Maplethorpe. Last but not least, Paris with Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten following a bold blend of voluminous shapes and tacked fabrics in their collections. So, how about New York then?
The Curiosity of ‘Onebuttoned’ Style
‘Onebuttoned’ style was introduced at Robert Geller, John Elliott+Co and Ovadia and Sons through M65 jackets, long black coats and satin shirts. Looking cool and rebellish at first sight, it gives me a certain feeling of incompleteness. If this trend is going to keep his head above water, Ovadia and Sons’s military parka would be an example of malfunction in itself; We’ve got everything there, the buttons, the zip, but none of them would be of use at all. Okay, at least we get to see what they model wore underneath…
On the other side, the black long coat by Robert Geller works calmingly on the eye. The ‘onebuttoned’ style comes with a twist of minimalism -except the pants, I mean really?- and black just had me here.
John Elliott’s pistachio silk shirt is another version of ‘onebuttoned’ style that I just can’t stop looking at. Buttoned up the other way round it would look more summery and casual. But hey, if you’ve never been a friend of ironing this style might come in handy…
Working Class Style at NYFW Men SS17
Inspired by the working class styles of the 60s, Cadet, Robert Geller and Simon Miller came up with some casual overalls and uni-coloured garments for the SS17 season. What I pretty much like about this piece is that all of them have focused on the narrow waist. The linen fabric chosen at Cadet, who are known for their military inspired collections, makes the overall the perfect garment to wear during the transitional season. Robert Geller’s and Simon Miller’s version reminds us of prison wear, but more of the Netflix series ‘Orange is the New Black’. All of them are worth to give a go on the streets, making an edgy trend for the men’s world to experiment with.